mynth
← DATABASE
05/2023

GRUPPO FLORENCE acquired by PERMIRA

ITALY Luxury Goods / Fashion & Leather Goods EV 1b - 4b EUR

Context

Permira acquired a majority stake in Gruppo Florence. The sellers included VAM Investments, Fondo Italiano d'Investimento, and Italmobiliare. While Italmobiliare exited fully, VAM Investments, Fondo Italiano, and the founding families of the acquired SMEs reinvested significantly alongside Permira to retain a minority stake.

GRUPPO FLORENCE, which reported an EBITDA margin of LOGIN in 2022, is valued in this transaction at an EV/EBITDA multiple of LOGIN, representing a LOGIN to the average currently observed in the Retail & Consumer sector (11.3x).

Note that this data is based on contribution from our growing community, composed of M&A and Private Equity professionals, and has been verified by our team to ensure its accuracy.

-> Deep-dive in Retail & Consumer market trends

Target

Gruppo Florence is Italy s leading integrated Corporate platform for the luxury fashion industry. Founded in 2020, it aggregates high-quality family-owned manufacturers (SMEs) serving top global luxury brands. At the time of the deal, the group comprised 26 companies specialized in ready-to-wear, leather goods, and shoes, preserving "Made in Italy" craftsmanship.

Ent. Value

LOGIN

Equity Value

LOGIN

Multiples

EV / Revenue

LOGIN

EV / EBITDA

LOGIN

EV / EBIT

LOGIN

Historical Financials (EUR)

Year
Rev
EBITDA
EBIT
2022
LOGIN
LOGIN
LOGIN
2021
LOGIN
LOGIN
LOGIN

Similar deals in Retail & Consumer

List of similar M&A transactions (Date, Acquirer, Target, Country, Sector, Deal Context)
DateAcquirerTargetCountrySectorDeal Context
02/2024L CATTERTONTOD’SITALYLuxury Goods

L Catterton, in concert with the founding Della Valle family, has launched a voluntary tender offer to acquire the remaining shares of Tod’s SpA and delist the company from Euronext Milan. This represents the family's second attempt to take the company private in less than two years, following a failed bid in 2022. The strategic rationale for the delisting is to provide the group with "greater management and organizational flexibility" and faster decision-making capabilities. Post-transaction, the Della Valle family will maintain majority control with a 54% stake, while L Catterton will hold 36% and LVMH (via Delphine S.A.S.) will retain its existing 10% stake. This structure reinforces the long-standing "friendly support" between the Arnault and Della Valle families while positioning Tod's for a period of accelerated consolidation and brand repositioning under private ownership.

07/2023KERINGVALENTINOITALYLuxury Goods

Kering has agreed to acquire a 30% shareholding in Valentino from Mayhoola. The agreement comprises an option for Kering to acquire 100% of the share capital of Valentino no later than 2028. The transaction is part of a broader strategic partnership between Kering and Mayhoola, which could potentially lead to Mayhoola becoming a shareholder in Kering in the future. Kering will appoint representatives to the Board of Directors of Valentino. This move aims to support Valentino's brand elevation strategy while reinforcing Kering's position in the ultra-luxury segment.

11/2022PENINSULA CAPITAL / PERCASSIMC2 SAINT BARTHITALYLuxury Goods

Peninsula Capital and the Percassi Group acquired a 40% stake in Lanikai S.r.l., the owner of the MC2 Saint Barth brand. The founders, Massimiliano Ferrari and Raffaele Noris, retained a 60% majority. The partnership aims to accelerate the brand's international expansion, leveraging Percassi's retail expertise to open new mono-brand boutiques in the US (Los Angeles), Middle East, and Asia. At the time of the deal, the brand operated 53 boutiques and had a strong e-commerce presence (25% of sales).

07/2022AMF GROUPCHAINES ET CIEFRANCELuxury Goods

The transaction involves the acquisition of Chaines et Cie by AMF Group, a portfolio company of Alpha Private Equity, from the owner Frédéric Dreyfus. Following the group's standard acquisition model, Dreyfus will reinvest a portion of the proceeds into the AMF Group and continue to lead the French operations as a manager. This deal is highly strategic as it marks AMF's first major international expansion into France, creating the first pan-European player in the luxury accessories sector. The rationale is based on the strong industrial complementarity between Chaines et Cie’s French artisanal heritage and AMF’s Italian technological scale. By combining these entities, the group can offer luxury houses a dual-sourcing strategy (Italy and France) under a single management umbrella. The acquisition follows closely on the heels of the Italcatene deal, signaling a clear intent to dominate the specialized "chains" category within the luxury hardware market. Post-acquisition, the consolidated group expects to reach a critical scale with forecasted annual revenues exceeding €120M.

06/2022G-III APPAREL GROUPKARL LAGERFELDFRANCELuxury Goods

The acquisition of Karl Lagerfeld by G-III Apparel Group is a strategic move to expand the company's portfolio of luxury fashion brands. The deal allows G-III to become the sole owner of the renowned international fashion brand, enabling the company to leverage the brand's iconic vision and design aesthetic to drive growth and increase its presence in the global fashion market. The acquisition is expected to generate significant revenue growth for G-III, with the brand projected to represent over $2 billion in retail sales in the long term. The deal also provides G-III with a strong platform to further develop its luxury fashion business, building on the brand's existing presence in key markets such as Europe, the Middle East, and Asia. The acquisition is a testament to G-III's commitment to investing in high-quality brands with strong growth potential, and the company is well-positioned to capitalize on the opportunities presented by the deal. The transaction is also expected to enhance G-III's competitiveness in the global fashion market, enabling the company to better compete with other luxury fashion players. Overall, the acquisition of Karl Lagerfeld by G-III Apparel Group is a significant strategic move that is expected to drive long-term growth and success for the company.

06/2022AMF GROUPITALCATENEITALYLuxury Goods

The transaction involves the acquisition of a majority stake in Italcatene by AMF Group, a portfolio company of Alpha Private Equity. The founding Tozzi family will retain a minority interest and continue to lead the operational management of the business in coordination with the AMF leadership team. This acquisition represents a strategic horizontal integration for AMF, allowing the group to add specialized chain manufacturing to its existing portfolio of luxury accessories like buttons and fasteners. The rationale is driven by the ongoing consolidation trend in the Italian luxury supply chain, where scale is becoming increasingly vital to meet the rigorous sustainability and volume demands of global luxury conglomerates. By integrating Italcatene, AMF expands its technical capabilities into new product categories while leveraging its established commercial network to scale Italcatene's market reach. The partnership is expected to generate significant industrial synergies by combining AMF's technological expertise in metal injection molding with Italcatene's specialized finishing and chain production techniques.

03/2021EXORCHRISTIAN LOUBOUTINFRANCELuxury Goods

Exor invests +€500 million to acquire 24% of Christian Louboutin. This transaction allows Exor to strengthen its presence in the luxury and fashion sector, and Christian Louboutin to benefit from Exor's expertise and resources to accelerate its development. The deal provides that Exor will appoint two of the seven members of Christian Louboutin's supervisory board. The alliance between the two parties will focus on several strategic priorities, including accelerating geographical expansion, particularly in China, and developing multi-channel distribution. Exor's strategy is to support Christian Louboutin's growth by providing its expertise and resources, while respecting the brand's independence and creativity. This transaction is an important step for Exor, which seeks to strengthen its presence in the luxury and fashion sector.

12/2020LVMHTIFFANY & COUNITED STATESLuxury Goods

LVMH acquired Tiffany & Co. in a record-breaking, highly strategic public-to-private transaction. The deal was structured via a definitive merger agreement that culminated in an all-cash tender offer approved by Tiffany's shareholders following an intense period of renegotiation and cross-border legal disputes triggered by the COVID-19 pandemic and international trade tariff friction. In the final binding agreement, LVMH successfully adjusted the purchase price downward from the initial $135.00 per share to $131.50 per share, securing a cash savings of approximately $430 million for the French conglomerate. The transaction drastically scales LVMH’s hard luxury division, transforming the group into a dominant global force in high jewelry capable of matching major institutional rivals while immediately granting Tiffany access to LVMH’s immense financial backing, global retail network, and downstream supply chain infrastructure.

07/2019ALPHA PRIVATE EQUITYAMF GROUPITALYLuxury Goods

The transaction involves the acquisition of a 65% majority stake in AMF Snaps by Alpha Private Equity, marking a significant entry into the luxury fashion supply chain. The deal structure includes a substantial reinvestment of 25% by the founding Faerber family, specifically Nicole Faerber and Carmen Toffanello, ensuring continuity in leadership and alignment of interests. Additionally, a 10% stake is being held by a consortium of investors including Italglobal Partners. The primary rationale for Alpha is to utilize AMF Snaps as a foundational platform for a consolidation strategy within the fragmented luxury accessories market. By leveraging the company's existing relationships with top-tier clients like Burberry, Louis Vuitton, and Moncler, Alpha intends to scale the business through organic growth and bolt-on acquisitions. This deal reflects the broader private equity trend of professionalizing "Made in Italy" manufacturing entities to better serve global luxury conglomerates that demand scale, reliability, and high production standards.

10/2016LVMHRIMOWAGERMANYLuxury Goods

LVMH acquired an 80% controlling majority stake in Rimowa from Dieter Morszeck in a highly strategic, friendly transaction. The deal was structured via a definitive share purchase agreement under which the French luxury conglomerate took full control of the corporate equity, while the remaining 20% stake was retained by Dieter Morszeck, who stayed on as an equity partner and co-managing director. Upon finalization of the transaction, Alexandre Arnault was appointed co-managing director to lead the integration alongside the founding family. The transaction immediately integrated Rimowa into LVMH's institutional framework as its first German luxury house, combining the manufacturer's exceptional engineering heritage with LVMH's global marketing engine and downstream retail infrastructure, while positioning the brand to capture long-term international expansion under new generational leadership.

REFERENCES

Valuation range: EV 1b - 4b EUR

Revenue range: 450M - 900M EUR

EBITDA range: 100M - 200M EUR

Note: This page provides detailed data on a private equity M&A transaction. Detailed and exact financial metrics for the acquisition of GRUPPO FLORENCE by PERMIRA are reserved for mynth community members. Register for free to unlock full data.

Authors: verified mynth contributor (mynth data is contributed by M&A / PE professionals and systematically cross-verified with private deal documents and official press releases).

Press release: view release

Target: gruppo florence

Acquirer: permira